Graham and I embarked on a 3-day adventure at a Peru Amazon lodge near Puerto Maldonado called the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica. I’ve always wanted to visit the Amazon jungle, to see wildlife, creatures, and beautiful flowers, and truly experience life in this special part of the world and I was not disappointed.
What I was afraid it would be like
Graham and I flew to Puerto Maldonado, Peru from Cusco to begin our trip at a Peru Amazon lodge. Before my recent Peruvian Amazon adventure, the five worst case scenarios I imagined were:
- Gigantic cockroaches and enormous woolly tarantulas crawling over me.
- Hordes of mosquitos infecting me with an untreatable life-threatening disease.
- A thick-bodied boa constrictor slithering from the dense forest canopy and suffocating me or a sleek black jaguar stalking me and tearing me to shreds.
- Angry encounters with tribes of painted, feather-trimmed warriors, aggressively pointing their spears at me.
- Torrential rainstorms and sweltering in the heat while sleeping and dining in primitive, smelly, canvas tents.
Here’s what actually happened
Arrival at the Peru Amazon Lodge
After tossing my carry-on suitcase and backpack into a motorized dugout canoe we cruised down the murky, chocolate milk-coloured Madre de Dios River as dusk descended. I was relieved when our captain told us that the piranhas in the muddy water below might nibble but would not actually eat me alive like in the movies. Less reassuring was the warning to watch out for caimans. Forty-five minutes later I arrived at a riverside dock, in the middle of nowhere, and climbed into the inky black night, up a rickety set of wooden stairs.
The first thing I saw was an impressive, two-story high, spacious, brightly lit, and inviting lodge, like a luxurious tropical hotel lobby with lounge furniture, spinning ceiling fans, and a thatched roof. A restaurant at the center had a few dozen rustic wooden tables and chairs, covered with cloth tablecloths, candles, and wine glasses. The hum of guests conversing, and the delicious aroma of peppery sauces drifted from the main lodge as we were greeted on the expansive roofed porch with a tropical beverage.
We could have paid less for a more rustic experience at a lower price but since we only wanted to “rough it” a little we chose this luxury all-inclusive lodge called the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica with many amenities to make our stay comfortable including fine dining, a well-stocked bar, and spa and wellness facilities.
Our accommodation – Peru Amazon Lodge
Our cottage was at the end of a pathway made of tree trunk stumps, surrounded by meticulously landscaped grounds, and lit with kerosene lanterns sitting on the steps leading to our door. The roomy cottage had a tall thatched roof, a wooden frame, and a large mesh-screened balcony with two hammocks and chairs overlooking the river.
The canopy bed had plush white pillows and a duvet and was draped with a white mesh mosquito net to keep away creepy crawlies. A bamboo privacy screen separated the balcony from the bed and behind the headboard was a console table with flashlights, a double sink with hot and cold running water, and separate rooms for a shower and flush toilet. There was no Wi-Fi or air conditioning and electricity including the use of the ceiling fan was limited each day.
Surprises
I expected the Amazon to be remote, peaceful, and quiet and was surprised that it was never silent at any time of the day or night. The sounds of the jungle surrounded me including birds chirping, howling monkeys, scurrying animals, cicadas, and frogs. Luckily, I didn’t see anything in my cottage but there were issues with frogs in some of the showers, and early the next morning large rodents similar to capybaras were running under the stilted cottages.
Tours in the Amazon
Amazon tours are scheduled at dawn, after dark, or in the late afternoon when animals are most active and the scorching, humid heat is less oppressive. Visitors should be prepared for sweltering, sultry weather in long-sleeved pants and tops, that protect you from mosquito bites but leave you constantly feeling sweaty, smelling like Deep Woods Off, and ready for a shower. There was one daytime rain shower in three days when it poured for about an hour while I lay in my hammock relaxing and reading after an early morning jungle hike.
Sandoval Lake and Tambopata Wildlife Reserve
The only Indigenous people I met were the knowledgeable and welcoming tour guides and a few friendly locals who were fishing near the dock when our group entered our dug-out canoes on our way to Sandoval Lake. Most lived further into the jungle than we explored. Animals and insects were plentiful during tours of the Tambopata Wildlife Reserve and Sandoval Lake. I was delighted to spot several species of monkeys, giant river otters, colourful birds, camouflaged lizards, huge beetles, giant azure butterflies, and multicoloured caterpillars. I never saw a snake or a jaguar, and although our guide promised they were out there, he told us that attacks on humans were extremely rare.
Canopy walk – suspension bridges
Later in the afternoon we trekked through the jungle and climbed up many, many stairs to take a rainforest canopy walk across wooden rope suspension bridges. It was a little scary, as the slats you stepped on looked well worn and a topple over the net on the side would have led to certain death. Our lodge had a unique optional experience available to have a romantic meal or to sleep overnight in a rustic tree house in the canopy of the rainforest. There was no toilet, and did I mention that there were a lot of stairs, so it wasn’t something that we tried.
Amazon jungle at night
The most creepy yet exhilarating experiences were at night during an evening river cruise and night walk through the jungle. At night you see many animals come out that are not visible during the day. On the night cruise there were caimans all over close to shore and some of them were quite large.
During a nighttime trek through the jungle, I felt like I was in a horror movie, waiting for something to jump out at me. I screamed aloud when moths started flying towards my headlamp as I was convinced it was a spider jumping on me. I was both terrified and thrilled to spot massive wolf and crab spiders, a giant toad staring at me, a wave of fast-moving army ants, and several huge hairy tarantulas that hovered near holes at the bottom of tree trunks. A highlight was when a shaggy ash-coloured sloth with black masked eyes turned his head to look down at me from a tree a few metres above.
My advice for those who are interested in booking a Peru Amazon Lodge for an adventure
Planning and preparation
- You don’t need to stay for a really long time to get the feel for the jungle life. 2 to 4 days is plenty of time to see what you want. If the excursions are well organized you can do multiple tours each day but it will be busy without a lot of downtime.
- Consider how far into the jungle you really want to go when you book and how much time you have. Our lodge was about 45 minutes by boat down the river which was considered nearby. Some can be as far as 5-10 hours away by boat just to get to and from your lodge. You will likely see more wildlife the further in you go but there are also the downsides of a long commute.
- You will normally fly first into a town that is a base location where the boats take you into the Amazon.
- There are riverboat trips instead of a lodge on the Amazon. This is an interesting option but in a different part of the Amazon (Iquitos in Peru), and is more practical during the wet season when the river is higher and you can get into some areas you can’t when it is dry.
- Get your Yellow Fever vaccine before you go. It is recommended in Peru and it is mandatory that you have it in other countries like Brazil. If you don’t have it you may not be allowed to travel.
- It is really, really, sweltering hot and there is no air conditioning. We showered several times just to stay cool and wash off the sweat and deet so be prepared. Its really nice to have a screened area with seating and/or a hammock to sit and relax without getting eaten alive by mosquitos.
- Break out of your comfort zone and try new things to fully experience this fascinating part of the world. Only one other lodge guest went on the nighttime trek through the jungle with my husband and I. They really missed out on this once in a lifetime adventure in the Amazon. It is a bit scary but its also an amazing experience.
Packing and luggage
- Don’t forget to bring lots of bug spray preferably with something really strong like Deet. Pack lightweight long-sleeved shirts and pants to protect yourself from bites. I felt mosquitoes were the biggest risk of travelling to the Amazon jungle.
- At our lodge people brought their regular-sized luggage. It is possible that there are restrictions on what you can bring or you can only take a duffle bag as you are travelling to the lodge in a motorized canoe. Be sure to confirm this when you book.
- Pack a good quality raincoat and a flashlight and/or nightlight if one is not already included.
- Keep your luggage zipped and closed at all times when you are not getting something from it. I also prefer to keep my luggage off the floor. Shake out your shoes before putting them on.
Tips for booking a Peru Amazon Lodge
- Pay extra for a nicer lodge with better amenities and food. You will get what you pay for and you will appreciate luxuries like tasty food, electricity, warm water, and flush toilets. You don’t have the option to “go somewhere else for supper” if you don’t like the food they serve.
- Your bed should have mosquito netting covering it. Trust me, when you see what is crawling around outside this will help you to be able to sleep at night.
- Most of the stays will be all-inclusive with your accommodation, food, and transport to and from the lodge included. Excursions may or may not be included so look for details before you book and how much it will cost if you have to pay. Alcoholic drinks are not normally included but may be available. Some lodges have outdoor pools which are a great option to cool off.
- Shop around. Originally, I started a Google search for a tour to take me to the Amazon jungle and this was helpful to narrow down the general area, type of experience, accommodation, and activities I wanted. Intrepid offers a great tour called the “Peru: Amazon Jungle Short Break”. G Adventures offers a tour to the Peruvian Amazon as part of a 7-day tour to several of the top locations in Peru. A local operator also offers an extension trip to the Peruvian Amazon with either premium or comfortable accommodations.
- I found one tour that went to the same lodge I stayed at but had a huge uplift in the price and I had to pay for the whole tour upfront with unfavourable cancellation policies. I looked up the exact same lodge on Booking.com and it was hundreds of dollars cheaper, it had a more flexible last-minute cancellation option, and I didn’t have to pay until shortly before I got there. I thought maybe I was getting something extra by booking through the tour but no, everything included was exactly the same, just different prices, and less flexible cancellation policies through the tour provider.
- Look for a reputable lodge or provider with good online reviews. You will be entirely dependent on them to keep you safe, healthy, and comfortable during your stay so you want to feel confident that they are able to do this.
Surviving an Amazon jungle adventure at a Peru Amazon Lodge
Despite my initial fears most of my worries about an Amazon jungle adventure never materialized, at least not in the way I imagined. Yes, it was hot, there were mosquitos, dangerous animals, and other creepy crawlies but none that posed any serious risk with reasonable precautions. People were friendly, the guides, food, and hospitality were amazing and the experience was memorable. I not only survived my Amazon adventure but I lived to share an amazing experience of one of the most mystical and extraordinary places on earth.
